vet staff holding a dog on the table

Guardian Guide

Diet Recommendations for Dogs

Staying away from “grain-free” diets in dogs
Various studies have shown that various “grain-free” diets have been implicated as the only known link to causing a rare heart disease, dilated cardiomyopathy, in dogs that have been fed the diet long term. For this reason, the veterinary industry in general does not support or recommend grain free diets unless a medical condition deems it necessary for that specific patient. The original thought behind the idea is that these diets contain ‘less filler’ or are ‘more natural’ by emulating the diet of the dog’s ancestor, the grey wolf. The issue with this line of thinking is dogs have been domesticated for thousands of years and are not carnivores like their ancestor the grey wolf- they are omnivores.
Boutique”/Trending Diets

With the rapidly growing dog food industry, many new, “human-grade”, or trendy diets have come to light as a “better alternative” to traditional dog food. The problem that many in the veterinary industry have with this fad is that, often, these dog food companies put more time into advertising and marketing than they do into studying and researching the long term effects these diets have on pets. For this reason, we do not recommend these diets as we have no medical reason to suggest they are any better, or at least as good as, reputable dog food companies that have done the studies and the research to prove that their foods contain all of the correct vitamins and nutrients for what pets need.

Raw Diets

Raw or uncooked diets (including freeze-dried raw) present a problem because uncooked proteins carry with them increased risk of parasites and bacterial overgrowth such as salmonella (a common cause of food poisoning and diarrhea in dogs and many animals including humans). There is a reason even human doctors recommend cooking foods to acceptable temperatures and standards, because across all species, it drastically reduces parasite and bacterial loads without drastically changing the nutrient content of the food. 

So what diets do veterinarians recommend?
Bottom line is- veterinarians stand behind science based evidence. We recommend foods that have been trialed, tested, and evaluated over time to prove that their food meets all of the nutritional needs for a dog at its current life stage. We also recommend reputable companies that regularly test, evaluate, and study their food composition and how it affects your pet throughout its lifetime. AAFCO is a non-profit, third party organization that sets minimum standards for both animal feeds and pet foods in the United States. It ensures that if a dog food bag is labeled for growth, lactation, or maintenance; it meets all the requirements for that specific life stage.

Ultimately, we stand behind any dog food brand with the AAFCO label as the bare minimum for what is acceptable for your pet. Look for the AAFCO statement on the back of your pets dog food bag/can. If there is one, it means that dog food meets all of the minimum requirements set forth by AAFCO for that specific life stage of dog. That being said, different life stages have different requirements and standards. Ask your veterinarian what life stage food would suit your dog best. An “all life stage” food does NOT equate to being the best fit for your pet’s specific needs.
 
Some common brands that have been around for a long time, built a reputation for science based nutrition and quality, taken the time to research nutrition, their product, and how it affects your pets are: (in order of price and quality)

  • Royal Canin
  • Hills Science Diet
  • Purina ProPlan

Weight Loss for Dogs

Why is it important for my pet to lose weight?

We get it- food is love! And while yes, we want your pet to enjoy a high quality of life, being overweight can actually lead to a lower quality as well as quantity (length) of life. While 10-20 pounds of being overweight may not seem like much to us, in most dogs, it equates to 20-40% of their entire body weight, which comes with many increased risks.

Being overweight causes increased strain and wear on your pets joints- it can predispose them to more advanced osteoarthritis, a painful condition of the joints that makes it more difficult for them to get around comfortably as they age. It also predisposes them to injuries for the same reason, makes them a higher risk candidate for anesthesia due to the increased weight and pressure on their lungs, as well as more likely to develop cancer as they age because obesity in and of itself is inflammatory.

Studies have shown that dogs that become obese from a younger age compared to their littermates who are maintained at a healthy weight their whole lives tend to live 2 years less on average- that’s a lot of time, snuggles, and tail wags!

Bottom-line is

Your pet doesn’t know that the amount of food that they are consuming is the reason they can’t run, jump, and play like they used to. Since now you do, it’s your job to regulate their intake for them. They might not appreciate it at first, but they will once some of the weight starts to fall off and they’re able to live happier, healthier, longer lives.

Okay well, what do you recommend I do to encourage weight loss?

Weight loss should be a gradual, well-controlled process. Your pet wasn’t built in a day- we don’t expect them to lose it all in a day either! By far and large, the single most important factor in helping a dog lose weight is reducing their food intake. All dogs have different activity levels, different metabolisms, and therefore require different amounts of food to maintain their ideal weight. We recommend starting by decreasing your pets food intake by 20%- so if you’re currently feeding your pet 1 cup twice a day, try decreasing it to 8/10ths (roughly 3/4ths) of a cup twice a day. Oftentimes, to help pets cope with this decrease in calories, we recommend adding in frozen green beans into their diet to help them feel more full. Green beans are a dog safe, easily digestible, high fiber, and low calorie way to help your pet adapt to their new diet and not be so hungry. They’re basically the dog-equivalent of a salad. If your dog doesn’t want to eat green beans at first, it’s likely because they aren’t hungry enough yet- give it time.

In summary
  • Obesity in dogs can lead to advanced arthritis, injuries, anesthetic complications, and even an increased risk of cancer.
  • Decrease their food intake by 20% to start with, add in green beans to help them feel more full.
  • Check their weight 2-4 weeks after adjusting their diet to ensure you’re moving in the right direction.
  • Your pet’s weight loss is a marathon, not a sprint. If there are parts of your pet’s weight loss you are struggling with, voice your concerns so we can come to a solution everyone is happy with.

Weight loss for cats

Why is it important for my pet to lose weight?
We get it- food is love! And while yes, we want your pet to enjoy a high quality of life, being overweight can actually lead to a lower quality as well as quantity (length) of life. While 2 or even 5 pounds of being overweight may not seem like much to us, in cats, it equates to 20-40% of their entire body weight, which comes with many increased risks.

Being overweight causes increased strain and wear on your pets joints- it can predispose them to more advanced osteoarthritis, a painful condition of the joints that makes it more difficult for them to get around comfortably as they age. It also predisposes them to injuries for the same reason, makes them a higher risk candidate for anesthesia due to the increased weight and pressure on their lungs, more likely to develop cancer as they age because obesity is inflammatory, more likely to develop diabetes due to insulin intolerance, as well as more likely to develop a life threatening condition called hepatic lipidosis.

Hepatic lipidosis in particular is a major concern in overweight cats because if your overweight cat stops eating for a period of time (due to stress, another disease, or any other reason), their body will begin rapidly breaking up their fat stores and sending it to the liver. This massive breakdown of fat overwhelms the liver, inhibiting its ability to function, and causing them to become very sick, very fast.

Okay well, what do you recommend I do to encourage weight loss?
Weight loss should be a gradual, well-controlled process- especially in cats. If your cat loses weight too quickly from too aggressive of a diet, they stand the risk of developing hepatic lipidosis as discussed earlier. Your pet wasn’t built in a day- we don’t expect them to lose it all in a day either! By far and large, the single most important factor in helping a cat lose weight is reducing their food intake. All cats have different activity levels, different metabolisms, and therefore require different amounts of food to maintain their ideal weight. We recommend starting by decreasing your pet’s food intake by 10%- so if you’re currently feeding your pet ½ a cup twice a day, try decreasing it to ½ a cup in the morning, and ⅓ cup in the evening.

Whatever adjustment you make should be based on what your pet is currently used to eating. Again- we want this to be gradual. Oftentimes, to help pets cope with this decrease in calories, we recommend trying to entice your cat to eat more wet food and less dry food. Wet food is higher in water content, protein content, and less calorie dense- all factors to help your cat consume less calories while feeling more full. If your cat will eat wet food, try slowly taking out small amounts of dry food and swapping it with wet food. Your vet can help you navigate this transition.

Bottom-line is

Your pet doesn’t know that the amount of food that they are consuming is the reason they can’t run, jump, and play like they used to. Since now you do, it’s your job to regulate their intake for them. They might not appreciate it at first, but they will once some of the weight starts to fall off and they’re able to live happier, healthier, longer lives.

New Puppy Handout

Puppy Vaccines/Vet Visits:
Preventative medicine is the best kind for your new puppy- it means we can prevent problems before they even occur. This is why it is so important to get them on a vaccine schedule as soon as possible. Puppies are more susceptible to many different preventable diseases because their immune systems are not quite up to par yet. The following is a quick summary of routine preventative care measures we recommend for your puppy:

  • DHPP Vaccine: Distemper, Adenovirus, Parainfluenza, and most importantly for your puppy, Parvovirus- a life-threatening virus found throughout the environment that puppies are particularly susceptible to until they are fully vaccinated.
  • Leptospirosis Vaccine: a bacteria spread in the urine of other dogs as well as many wildlife species, often found in soil and water, that affects the liver and kidneys of your dog. It can also be given to humans.
  • Bordetella Vaccine: otherwise known as kennel cough, which is spread from close contact between other infected dogs
  • Rabies Vaccine: a deadly virus and one required by Texas state law due to its ability to be transmitted to humans resulting in neurologic abnormalities and eventually death.
  • Heartworm prevention: Heartworms are parasites that can infect dogs and damage their hearts, lungs, and blood vessels. They are spread by mosquitoes and are much more easily prevented with monthly heartworm preventions than treated with expensive and risky heartworm treatment.
  • Flea/tick prevention: Here in Texas, we have fleas and ticks year round- in addition to making your pet itchy, they also are known to transmit many diseases such as tapeworms, lyme disease, and many more.
  • Fecal testing and/or deworming: Intestinal parasites such as hookworms, roundworms, and whipworms can infest your dog’s gastrointestinal tract and cause diarrhea, vomiting, and other major illnesses. Fecal testing to screen for intestinal parasites and or deworming medications are important to ensure your pet is parasite free.
Socialization

While your puppy is still young (especially in the first 16 weeks of life), they are still learning their place in the world and figuring out where they stand. It’s important to get your puppy used to things such as touching their feet, ears, mouth, and tail. It’s also important to expose them to many different types of people, sounds, and smells. A confident puppy becomes a friendly dog, while a fearful puppy often becomes an aggressive or anxious dog. Build your puppy’s confidence by trying to make every new experience, sound, or interaction a positive one. Feel free to use lots of positive reinforcement, treats, and praise when your puppy encounters something novel or different.

That being said, it is crucial to keep your puppy safe from exposure to any diseases until they are fully vaccinated. Keep them away from places other dogs frequent whose health status is unknown. (No walks around the neighborhood, trips to the dog park, doggy daycare, pet stores, ect.) They can go on play-dates with other dogs but please ensure that the dogs they will be meeting are fully vaccinated and healthy- these should occur either at your house or theirs.

Obedience Training

As discussed previously, training practices that center around positive reinforcement and neutral correction have proven to be the best way of not only teaching your puppy to behave, but also creating that human animal bond with a happy, loving companion we all hope for. There are many great resources that focus on puppy training in depth. One we highly recommend that is free and easy to use is ‘Zak George’s Dog Training Revolution’ on YouTube. Give it a try, and definitely feel free to discuss any challenges you are encountering with your vet!

Potty Training

Dogs naturally like to stay clean and don’t like to urinate or defecate in places they see as their living space. It will take time, but eventually our goal is for your pet to see your entire house as their living space. If you want your pet to go to the bathroom outside, it is best to start by confining them to a smaller space such as a blocked off room/section of your house or crate. Try to make this space a positive one for your puppy by giving them lots of treats, toys, or attention in this space. This will discourage them from wanting to soil their newfound ‘home’ and more likely to hold it until they are let outside.

Puppies can generally hold their bowel movements for however many months old they are plus one in hours. (A 2 month old can hold it for 3 hours, a 6 month old- 7 hours) Give your puppy every opportunity to succeed by taking them outside frequently and giving them plenty of positive praise and affection when they go where they’re supposed to. If you’re able to catch your puppy going in the house when they’re not supposed to, make a quick, harsh sound and immediately take them outside. If they go outside- praise them. If you’re unable to catch them in the act, don’t discipline them, just clean it up. Taking your puppy back to where they had an accident and disciplining them won’t teach them anything, it will just make them fearful and submissive to you, but they won’t know what they did wrong.

If you feel you are not making as much progress as you would like, try limiting their free space further and taking them out more often. Remember, positive reinforcement when your puppy does things right is crucial to showing them this is what you want- otherwise, they have no way of knowing. If your puppy is doing well, slowly start expanding the space they are allowed to roam freely in. Potty training takes time and patience-all we are looking for is progress!

Diet

Because your puppy is growing rapidly, it is important to have them on a high quality dog food labeled specifically for puppies. We recommend keeping them on this diet either until they are neutered/spayed, or until they are nearly fully grown. Some common brands that have been around for a long time, have taken the time to research nutrition, their product, and how it affects your pets are:

  • Royal Canin
  • Hills Science Diet
  • Purina ProPlan

Handouts are written by Jubilation Goodner, DVM

First Kitten Handout

Preventative medicine is the best kind for your new kitten- it means we can prevent problems before they even occur. This is why it is so important to get them on a vaccine schedule as soon as possible (starting typically around 6-9 weeks of age). Kittens are more susceptible to many different preventable diseases because their immune systems are not quite up to par yet. The following is a quick summary of routine preventative care measures we recommend:

FVRCP Vaccine:  Three highly contagious and life-threatening feline diseases: Feline Viral Rhinotracheitis, Feline Calicivirus, and Feline Panleukopenia. year thereafter.
FeLV Vaccine: Feline Leukemia Virus- a deadly disease transmitted from cat to cat. We always recommend vaccinating your cat for leukemia at least through their kitten series.
Rabies Vaccine: A deadly virus and one required by Texas state law due to its ability to be transmitted to humans resulting in neurologic abnormalities and eventually death.
FIV/FeLV Testing: This is a blood test for two relatively common, lifelong, viral diseases- Feline Immunodeficiency Virus (FIV) and Feline Leukemia Virus (FeLV)- these diseases can be passed from their mother from birth as well as from other stray cats.
Fecal Testing/Deworming: Intestinal parasites such as hookworms and roundworms can infest your cat’s gastrointestinal tract and cause diarrhea, vomiting, and other major illnesses. Fecal testing to screen for intestinal parasites and or deworming medications are important to ensure your pet is parasite free.
Flea/Tick Prevention: Here in Texas, we have fleas and ticks year round- in addition to making your pet itchy, they also are known to transmit many diseases.

Socialization
While your kitten is still young (especially in the first 16 weeks of life), they are still learning their place in the world and figuring out where they stand. It’s important to get your kitten used to things such as touching their feet, ears, mouth, belly, and tail. It’s also important to expose them to many different types of people, sounds, and smells. A confident kitten becomes a sweet cat, while a fearful kitten often becomes an aggressive or anxious cat. That being said- cats are not the same as dogs- every cat is different and some tend to be more social and affectionate, while others tend to be more independent and standoffish. Build your kitten’s confidence by trying to make every new experience, sound, or interaction a positive one. Feel free to use lots of positive reinforcement, treats, and praise when your kitten encounters something novel or different. Cats tend to get very set in their ways as they get older, so if there is anything you would like your kitten to become desensitized to (such as other cats, children, ect.), it is best to introduce these things while they are still young.
That being said, it is crucial to keep your kitten inside and safe from exposure to any diseases until they are fully vaccinated.
Diet
When it comes to your kitten’s diet, it is important to remember that cats are obligate carnivores. This means that they need high protein meals in order to develop properly, as they cannot make important amino acids themselves. When it comes to feeding your new kitten make sure at least some of their diet includes wet cat food.

Wet food for cats tends to be better than dry for several reasons-

It is higher in protein content (which is important for cats as obligate carnivores), higher in water content (which is ideal for the health of their kidneys), as well as lower in calorie content (making it much more unlikely for a cat eating wet food to become obese or overweight).

The last reason we recommend at least some wet food for your kitten is because at this stage your kitten is developing their preferences for food. Cats often imprint on that type of food they were offered as kittens and refuse to branch out as they get older. This can make diet changes much more difficult later in life when your cat may need

Handouts are written by Jubilation Goodner, DVM

What happens when your dog gets a dental at the vet?